A friend offered to pay me to do this for him. I feel like it turned out very well.
- Soldering iron & Solder
- Small wire
- 3x 3.5v 4pin green square clear leds
- Assorted pack of Resistors
- Electrical tape
- Hot glue gun & sticks
- Precision screwdriver set (star)
- Long bladed knife
- SPST switch (on/off)
Opening the Xbox
1. Take the hard drive out
2. Pull the vents off the top and bottom with a flat head screw driver
2. Take a long knife blade, push it in the slots (there are 6 on each side, all 4 corners and then 2 in the middle opposite of each other.) pushing toward the outside case then pry away from the xbox. pulling the tabs your blade is hooked into away from the inside of the case.
3. Take the wireless card out that is screwed into the metal case
4. Now, on the end with the wireless card, there will be two clips on the inside you will have to undo, then on the other end one more will have to be undone, now this is the hardest part, near the center of the back a place that you cant get to, you will have to force a knife blade in and then pry the the blade inside unlocking the clip and the two halves should come apart. DO NOT pull it apart!
5. Put your hand on top of the joint of the face plate and the side push down hard as you pull up on the side that isn’t attached to the metal case. You should hear some snaps then it should pull away DO NOT pull the face plate off!
6. Gently pull the face plate up A LITTLE and look for a blue black ribbon cable attached to the green circuit board. De-attach it by pulling the bluest part around the connector up then unlock the ribbon connector by pulling the brown piece toward the longest part of the ribbon until it gives a little then stops and then pull the ribbon away toward the longest piece.
7. Unscrew the black screws on the metal case, and there is one under the xbox 360 sticker in the center. now flip the xbox over and pull the other side off with the face plate, then separate them.
CONGRATS! YOU DISASSEMBLED IT!
Planing and a power supply
I found two places to get power that I figured would not damage the motherboard, the usb ports are 5 volts and always on, and the power connector on the underside of the motherboard is 5 volts which is also always on.
NOTE: the hard drive bay has two screws holding it down, to remove it, remove the screw on the back vent, then follow the small black arm to the top of the case and turn it over on the back of the metal case and there will be one more screw to remove.
The pins I used on the underside to get the power, its pretty easy to solder to, just tape it up when your done so it doesn’t short out.
To remove the motherboard, first you will have to remove the hard drive mount (read note above this one) and the small cd drive stand which is held by one screw.
Ready Set GO!
1. 5v+ from the motherboard to the switch
2. Switch to led1
3. led1 to led2
4. led2to ground
* 5v (power supply) – 3.5v (led1) – 3.5v (led2) = -2v
Since the circuit can not provide enough voltage the leds should be fine and not burn out. They will run at a lower intensity which is okay in this case.
1. 5v+ (usb port) to led3
2. led3 to usb ground
3. but wait? 5v – 3.5v = 1.5v This will be to much power for the led (the extra 1.5 volts will burn the LED out quick.) We need a resistor.
To find the right resistor, you first must figure out what kind you have from your assorted package. The best way to find out what you have is to ether use a voltage meter that auto ranges, or google “Resistor Color Code Calculator” then write your readings on the paper stuck to the resistors.
To find what resistor you need, do this. Take the source of the power 5v, subtract the led voltage 3.5 = 1.5volts now divide that by your 20ma current rating from your led. From what I understand will be represented by 0.02 which will equal 75ohms
Getting the right ohms
1. If you take a 100ohm resistor then put another
100ohm resistor after it –ww–+–ww–, that equals 200ohms of
2. now if you take a
100ohm resistor and put another
100ohm resistor side by side then solder the two together
parallel you get 50 ohms of
Take two 150ohm resistors, solder them parallel to create 75ohms of resistance, putting your LED at full 3.5vs it should be running at.
Now we need to attach the LEDs where we want them. It’s pretty easy: just solder your wires to them (by the way: your LEDs negative is always the biggest piece inside the LED, the other is the positive). Tape them up so they don’t touch each other or short while touching metal. Find where you want them, and glue them down with the hot glue. Don’t over do it, or use a super HOT hot glue gun, I think that might melt the LEDs.
On this fan I placed one on top next to the air vents on the fan motor, and then pushed my soldering iron through the side, and cut a square hole for the other LED on the side.
This one is taped to the metal and then glued
Wiring everything together
Ok so now we need to connect every thing together.
1. Take the positive from the motherboard, run it to the switch on the middle pin.
2. Take the right pin on the switch and run it to the positive pin on the fan LED
3. Then the negative pin on the LED to the positive pin on the second LED on top of the fan,
4. Then take the negative pin on the second LED and run it to the ground on the motherboard
Hook the cd drive in and the face plate. You shouldn’t have to turn it on, just plug the power cable into it. This should run the LEDs. If they are not lighting up, check your connections or flip your switch.
NOTE: If your power brick shows a red light you need to unplug it from the wall and re plug it in, if it shows it again that means its shorting somewhere.
Once everything runs, put it all back together, and test it again. (when you put the black screws back into the case leave the ones on the bottom a little loose if you put the led on top of the fan like I did. Otherwise, it might squeeze the fan motor slowing it down.)
MAKE SURE your fan is plugged in. Without the fan the GPU and CPU will over heat damaging your xbox.
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